The French court costume of the last quarter of the 15th – early 16th centuries: According to the book illustrations
Abstract
The article considers manuscript miniatures and engravings of first print books created in France at the end of the 15th – beginning of the 16th centuries. These books were identified from the collections of various libraries both in the original (Russian Academy of science Library, National Library of Russia) and in digital form (National Library of France, Library of Congress etc.), as well as from their publications of the 19th – 20th centuries. The books are completely different in content and purpose of the essay: books of hours for personal use, a handbook on medicinal plants, translations of F. Petrarch’s works, etc., but including miniatures or engravings with people images. Some of these sources are considered in connection with the costume history for the first time.
The period of the reign of Charles VIII and Louis XII, which became a transitional time from the High Middle Ages to the Renaissance, was reflected in a relatively rapid change in the costume shape. The study of images that decorate manuscripts and first-print books complements the list of already known pictorial sources. It expands the understanding of the appearance of people of different social status and occupation, cases of using a particular costume.
About the Author
A. E. Zhabreva
The Russian Academy of Science Library; St. Petersburg State University
Russian Federation
Russian Federation
Zhabreva A. E. — Cand. Sci. (Pedagogy), Member of the St. Petersburg Union of Artists
1, Birzhevaya line, St. Petersburg, 199034; Faculty of Arts, 49, 10th line, St. Petersburg, 199178
References
1. Bertière S. Les reines de France au temps des Valois. [Pt. 1] “Le beau XVIe siècle”. Paris: Editions de Fallois, 1994. 417 r.
2. Description du couronnement et de l’entrée à Paris d’Anne de Bretagne: manuscript / enlumineur: Maître de la Chronique scandaleuse. Paris. Vers. 1505.
3. Sacre, couronnement et entrée de Claude de France: manuscript / enlumineur: Maître des Entrées parisiennes. Paris, 1517. A+58 f. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https:// gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10026508t/f45.item.r=Anne%20de%20Breton (data obrashheniya: 08.12.2021).
4. Anne de Bretagne: une histoire, un myth. Paris: Somogy, éd. d’art [etc.], 2007. 206 p.
5. Kudrikova S. F. Franciya, XV–XVIII veka: biogr. slov. SPb.: Azbuka-klassika, 2010. 592 s.
6. Horae ad usum Romanum, dites Grandes Heures d’Anne de Bretagne:manuscript / enlumineur: J. Bourdichon. Tour, 1505–1510. 238 f. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b52500984v/f1.image.double (data obrashheniya: 02.08.21).
7. Lecoy de la Marche A. Les manuscrits et la minianure. Paris: Alcid Picard, s. a. 1890. 357 p.
8. A masterpiece reconstructed: The Hours of Louis XII: catalog of an exhibition held at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Oct. 18, 2005 – Jan. 8, 2006, and at the Victoria a. Albert Museum, Feb. 2 – May 1, 2006 / ed. by Th. Kren, M. Evans, essays by J. Backhouse, Th. Kren, N. Turner, M. Evans. Los Angeles: London: Getty Publications, British Library, 2005. 9 p. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https://books.google.ru/books?id=rh02AgAA QBAJ&printsec=frontcover&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=true (data obrashheniya: 06.12.2021).
9. Backhouse J. Bourdichon’s ‘Hours of Henry VIII’ // The British Museum Quarterly. 1973. Vol. 37, № ¾ (Autumn). P. 95–102.
10. Epistres en vers françois dediees a Anne de Bretagne et Louis XII: manuscript / J. Lemaire de Belges, F. Andrelibni etc. / enlumineur: J. Bourdichon. Tour, vers. 1512. 112 f.
11. Marshandis A., Dyumon D. Rukopis` FR. F. V. XIV, 8 iz Rossijskoj Nacional`noj biblioteki Sankt-Peterburga: literaturny`j i istoricheskij analiz // Vestnik Pravoslavnogo Svyato-Tixonovskogo gumanitarnogo universiteta. Seriya 3: Filologiya. 2013. № 3 (33). S. 33–51.
12. Voronova T. P., Sterligov A. Western European illuminated manuscripts of the 8th to 16th centuries in the National Library of Russia, St. Petersburg: France, Spain, England, Germany, Italy, The Netherlands / Ed. M. Grigorieva; transl. M. Faune. Bournemouth: St. Petersburg: Parkstone, Aurora, 1996. 287 p.
13. French miniatures 13th–16th centuries = Franczuzskaya miniatyura XIII–XVI vekov: nabor otkr. / Gos. publ. b-ka im. M. E. Salty`kova-Shhedrina; avt.-sost. T. Voronova. L.: Avrora, 1984. 1 l. obl., 16 otkr.
14. Marot J. Le Voyage de Gênes: manuscrit / enlumineur: J. Bourdichon. Tour, vers 1507– 1508. A-C + 44 f. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/ btv1b8427230m/f1.planchecontact (data obrashheniya: 09.12.2021).
15. Commémoracion et advertissement de la mort de... Madame Anne, deux foiz royne de France, duchesse de Bretaigne...; complainte que fait [Pierre Choque, dit] Bretaigne: manuscript. Paris, 1514. 66 f. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ ark:/12148/btv1b10308875d (data obrashheniya: 07.12.2021).
16. Bloem H. M. The processions and decorations at the royal funeral of Anne of Brittany // Bibliothèque d’Humanisme et Renaissance. 1992. T. 54, No. 1. P. 131– 160. URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/20679245 (data obrashheniya: 20.11.2021).
17. Gabory É. Iconography d’Anne de Bretagne // Bulletin de la Societe Archeologique et Historique de Nantes et de la Loire-lnferieure. 1936. V. 76. P. 93–103.
18. Merczalova M. N. Kostyum razny`x vremen i narodov: v 4 t. M.: Akad. mody`; SPb.: Chart pilot, 1993. T. 1. 543 s.
19. Zhabreva A. E`. Mexa, per`ya i czvety` v evropejskom srednevekovom kostyume: po materialam miniatyur rukopisej // Stratum plus. 2021. № 5. C. 195–205.
20. Lacroix P. Louis XII et Anne de Bretagne: chronique de l’histoire de France, ouvrage illustré. de 14 chromolithographies, 15 grandes gravures hors texte et d’environ 200 dessins dans le texte d’après les originaux de l’époque. Paris: G. Hurtrel, 1882. IV, 644 p. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k62369897. texteImage (data obrashheniya: 09.12.2021).
21. Petrarca F. Les apologues [et] fables de Laurens Valle. Paris: Antoine Vérard, ca. 1490. [36] l. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https://www.loc.gov/resource/ rbc0001.2009rosen0407/?sp (data obrashheniya: 06.12.2021).
22. Hortus sanitatis [= Le jardin de santé]. Paris: Antoine Vérard, [s.l. (ne ranee 1500). P. 1–2.
23. Quicherat J. Histoire du costume en France depuis temps les plus reculés jusqu’a la fin du XVIIIe siècle: ouvrage contenant 481 gravures dessinées sur bois d’après les document authentiques par Chevignard, Pauquet et P. Sellier. Paris: Librairie Hachette et Co, 1875. 680 p.
24. Renan A. Le costume en France. Paris: Ancienne Maison Quantin, Librairies-imprimeries reunites, 1890. 274 p.
25. Hearne K. M. Anne de Bretagne (r. 1491–1514): images of medieval queenship in early modern France: dissertation … doctor of Philosophy in Art History in the Graduate School of Binghampton University [E`lektronny`j resurs] / State University of New York. New York, 2002. 378 p. UMI number: 3074488. URL: https://www.proquest. com/pqdtglobal/docview/305434631/D91B3B8B957F45C5PQ/1?accountid=28464 (data obrashheniya: 12.08.21).
26. Vejs G. Vneshnij by`t narodov s drevnejshix do nashix vremen: v 3 t. / per. s nem.: V. Chaeva. M.: K. T. Soldatenkov, 1879. T. 3. Ch. 1. 450 s.
27. Vérard A. Louenges a Nostre Dame: manuscript / enlumineur: Maître de la Chronique scandaleuse. Paris, vers 1505–1510. [4]+35 ff.+[1] Bibliothèque nationale de France. [E`lektronny`j resurs]. URL: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/ btv1b8529691j?rk=21459;2 (data obrashheniya: 16.12.2021).
28. Andreeva R. P. E`nciklopediya mody`. SPb: Litera, 1997. 416 s.
29. Bradley C. G. Western world costume: an outline history. London: Peter Owen Ltd, 1954. 451 p.
Review
For citations:
Zhabreva A.E. The French court costume of the last quarter of the 15th – early 16th centuries: According to the book illustrations. Bulletin of Vaganova Ballet Academy. 2022;(1):106-126. (In Russ.)
Views:
263
Email this article 